Catalogo dei Corsi di studio

General expected learning outcomes
The traiing objectives of the course”Chemistry of Cosmetic Products” are the following:
the different classes of cosmetic products and the scope of their usage,
the functions of the different classes of ingredients used in the preparation of cosmetic products,
the formulation aspects concerning cosmetic products,
the regulatory aspects concerning the conception, production and sale of cosmetic products and the social and economic aspects related to their use.

Specific expected learning outcomes

1. Knowledge and understanding
The student will learn the function of the individual ingredients of a cosmetic product, the specific functions of the same ingredient in the various classes of cosmetic products, the physiological variation that the ingredients may exert in the area of application. .He will learn the origin and composition of the main classes of ingredients and their possible preparation and extraction techniques. In particular, he will learn the various types of
lipid phases, their origin and their different functions in the various cosmetics,
surfactants and their use as detergent and dispersant agents
hydrophilic ingredients, including macromolecular components, used in cosmetics
preservative, dye, antioxidant, depigmentant, exfoliant agents
properties and production of water used in cosmetic products
He will also gain knowledge on the regulatory aspects related to the use of the various ingredients and of the whole cosmetic product.

2. Applying knowledge and understanding
At the end of the course the student will recognize, for a cosmetic formulation, the functions of the individual ingredients and critically evaluate the possible interactions, incompatibilities, synergies of the various ingredients. He will be able to evaluate the stability of the formulation according to the substances contained in it. He will be able to propose the ingredient choice in relation to the intended effect and the conditions of use of the cosmetic product.

3. Making judgements
The lectures will be conducted with the direct participation of the students, with by asking and soliciting the raise of questions in order to stimulate their critical attitude. Links will also be proposed to real life and to the possible use in cosmetics of products suitable also for food, stimulating the ability to correlate the various functions that an ingredient can have in the various fields of use. The student will be continually referred to concepts already acquired in the field of chemistry (inorganic, organic, biochemical chemistry) and in the biomedical area (anatomy, physiology, pathology, pharmacology, pharmacognosy, toxicology).

4. Communication skills
The evaluation of the students will be carried out exclusively by oral examination, which will focus on all the topics of the program, testing also the relevant student's communication skills.

5. Learning skills
The student will be asked to deepen topics of his own interest using both recommended books and relevant scientific reports. This exercise will be useful also for his future working experience, to build skills in context analysis and problem solving.

Programme

Definition of Cosmetic according to European Regulation 1223/2009 and subsequent updates, Annexes to the Regulation. Product Information File. Cosmetic Labelling requirements and INCI Nomenclature.
Cosmetic formulation: the dispersed systems, classification and analysis. Water-based systems, oil-based systems, emulsions, hydrogels, anydrous systems, inclusion complexes, liposomes, cyclodextrins.
Raw materials used in cosmetic formulation: general considerations concerning stability, formulation flexibility, toxicological aspects, cosmetic aspects, microbiological aspects.
Lipophilic raw materials: paraffins, oils, fats and waxes of mineral, vegetable and animal origin; characteristics, production methods, composition and purity. Synthetic lipophilic substances. Correct choice of the lipophilic substance according to the expected effect. Main uses of lipophilic raw materials in the cosmetic field.
Hydrophilic raw materials: water for cosmetic use, characteristics, production, required specifications, compatibility with other ingredients; small hydrophilic molecules used as humectants and moisturizers; hydrophilic macromolecules in cosmetics, structural characteristics, use and application as thickeners and gellifying agents: synthetic polymers (polyacrylates) and natural polymers (polysaccharides); plant extracts, biofactors. Risks of microbial pollution. Main uses of hydrophilic raw materials in cosmetics.
Surfactants: definition of surfactant, classification, characteristics, incompatibility with other ingredients, use. Anionic, cationic, amphiphilic surfactants; non-ionic surfactants. The HLB system and the influence on the value of HLB of the surfactants by the components of the formulation.
Other specific classes of ingredients: rheological modifiers, sequestrants, antioxidants, film-forming agents, preservatives, texturizers, silicones.
Skin and skin permeation: notes on the epidermal structure with particular reference to the components intended for the maintenance of optimal conditions of the epidermal hydration such as the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) and epidermal lipids. Features of functional cosmetics for skincare.
Pigmentation: physiology of skin pigmentation, phototypes and sensitivity to sun exposure. UV rays and their effects. Sunscreens.
Skin appendages: hair and hair, structure, life cycle, natural color. Sebaceous glands, function, secretion, changes in secretion. Eccrine and apocrine sweat glands, type of secretion.
Microbiological aspects. Preservation of cosmetic products: the impossibility of a complete sterilization of a cosmetic product. Chemical and pshysico-chemical interactions of the components of the formulation with the preservative. Deactivation of preservatives and definition of effective and real concentration.
Cosmetics classes:
Detergents: soaps and liquid soaps, bubble baths, shampoos, intimate cleansers; Active Activating Substance (SAL).
Skin treatment: emollient and moisturizing creams; functional cosmetics: anti-age products. Exfoliating and smoothing products, fillers. Discussion on numerous formulations for skincare.
Sun products: sun protection and after-sun products.
Hair products: detergents, conditioners. Aesthetic treatment of hair, oxidation dyes.
Deodorant products: antiperspirants, antienzymatic and antimicrobial deodorants, adsorbents, covering products.
Cosmetics for the oral cavity: physiology of the oral cavity, tooth structure, oral cleansing, toothpaste, fluorinated toothpaste, whitening toothpaste, desensitizing toothpaste. Mouthwashes.
Decorative cosmetics: colorants and pigments, pearls; blusher and foundation, cosmetic powders, creamslipsticks, rimmel, pencils, eyeshadow.

Adopted texts

Manuale del Cosmetologo, AA.VV. 2° Ed. Tecniche Nuove (2014)

Bettiol e altri, Manuale delle preparazioni cosmetiche e dermatologiche, Tecniche nuove (2018)

M. Giuliani, Manuale di Scienze e Tecnologie Cosmetologiche, Aracne ed. 2005

G. Proserpio, Chimica e Tecnica Cosmetica 2000 Vol I e II, Sinerga ed. Tecnico Scientifiche

Didactic material provided by the teacher

Prerequisites

The student should know notions of General Chemistry, Organic Chemistry, Biochemistry and Physiology. He should be able to expose concepts with proper language and correct terminology.

Exam modes

The oral examination consists in the description and comment of a commercial cosmetic formulation chosen by the student.
The chemical, cosmetological and legislative aspects of the ingredients of the formulation and of the whole formulation must be treated with an outline of the physiology of the area of application. The student, in order to obtain the minimum positive evaluation, must know and describe at least 60% of the ingredients of the formulation and know the cosmetic effects they have; knowledge and basic reasoning skills are required on the various aspects of the course program. To achieve a score of 30/30 cum laude, the student must demonstrate that he has acquired an excellent knowledge of the topics, and be able to explain the presentation of the formulation in a logical way and with appropriate scientific language; excellent knowledge and skills are required in exposing and reworking the concepts acquired.