Catalogo dei Corsi di studio

General expected learning outcomes

The “Chemistry of Cosmetic Products” course aims to introduce the student to the different types of cosmetic products and their use, the functions of the different classes of ingredients used in their preparation, to the formulation aspects concerning cosmetic preparations and to the legislative aspects concerning the conception, production and selling of cosmetic products.

Specific expected learning outcomes

1. Knowledge and understanding
The student will learn the function of the ingredients of a cosmetic product, the specific functions of the same ingredient in the different classes of cosmetics, the physiological effect that the ingredients can exert in the area of application. He will learn the origin and composition of the main classes of ingredients and also the legislative aspects related to their use.

2. Applying knowledge and understanding
At the end of the course the student will recognize, for a cosmetic formulation, the functions of each ingredient and critically evaluate their potential interactions, incompatibilities, synergies. He will be able to evaluate the stability of the formulation according to the substances contained. He will be able to propose the ingredient choice in relation to the intended effect of a cosmetic product.

3. Making judgements
The lectures will be carried out with the direct participation of the students, asking questions in order to stimulate their critical sense. Connections to real life and to the use of cosmetic products also in the pharmaceutical and food industries will also be proposed, stimulating the ability to correlate the various functions that an ingredient may have in the various fields of use.
4. Communication skills
Thanks to the course of Chemistry of Cosmetic products the student will learn the specific basic terminology of cosmetological sciences, he will be able to communicate on the topic in a suitable manner and relate adequately at the working level on cosmetic formulations.

5. Learning skills
The student will be asked to deepen topics of his own interest using both recommended books and relevant scientific reports. This exercise will be useful also for his future working experience, to build skills in context analysis and problem solving.

Programme

Definition of cosmetic according to law; Law 713/86, European Regulation 1223/2009 and subsequent updates, Annexes to the regulation. Product Information File.

Raw materials used in the formulation of Cosmetics: general considerations concerning stability, formulation flexibility, toxicological aspects, cosmetic aspects, microbiological aspects. General considerations on chemical and chemical physical characteristics
associated with raw materials in relation to their methods of use. Analytical aspects related to raw materials. INCI Nomenclature.

Lipofile raw materials: oils, fats and waxes of mineral, vegetable and animal origin, characteristics, production methods, composition and purity. Synthetic lipophilic substances. Choice of the lipophilic substance according to the expected effect. Specific and comparative evaluation of lipophilic raw materials widely used in formulations.
Main uses of lipophilic raw materials in the cosmetic field.

Hydrophilic raw materials: water for cosmetic use, characteristics, production, specifications required, compatibility with other ingredients; small hydrophilic molecules used as humectants and moisturizers; hydrophilic macromolecules in cosmetics: structural characteristics, use and application limits in formulations rheological modifiers of common use; plant extracts. Considerations on their cosmetic significance in juxtaposition with the risks of microbial pollution deriving from their use; biofactors.
Main uses of hydrophilic raw materials in the cosmetic field.

Surfactants: classification, characteristics, incompatibility with other ingredients, use.
Anionic, cationic, anfiionic surfactants; non-ionic surfactants.

Skin and skin permeation: notes on the epidermal structure with particular reference to the components intended for the maintenance of optimal conditions of the epidermis such as the natural humidifying factor (NMF) and epidermal. Meaning of functional cosmetics intended for the maintenance and care of the skin. Mucous membranes.

Skin appendages: hair and hair, structure, life cycle, natural color. Sebaceous glands, function, secretion, changes in secretion. Eccrine and apocrine sweat glands, type of secretion.

Cosmetic formulation: the dispersed system, classification and recognition. Definition of surfactant. Determination of the CMC and its meaning. Ionic and non-ionic surfactants.
Outline of the theory of dispersed systems: Bancroft rule, oriented rim, del
Concepts of rheology: Newton's law, non-Newtonian fluids, thixotropy. Rotational viscometer. The HLB system. Influence on the value of HLB of the
surfactants by the components of the formulation.

Microbiological aspects.
Preservation of cosmetic products: the impossibility of rendering the finished product sterile. Chemical and chemical-physical interactions of the components of the formulation with the preservative. Deactivation of preservatives and definition of effective and real concentration. Technical sheets of the most common preservatives allowed in formulations.

Cosmetics classes:

Detergents: soaps and liquid soaps, bubble baths, shampoos, intimate cleansers, detergent power, Active Activating Substance (SAL).

Skin treatment:
Functional cosmetics. Discussion of numerous formulations of systems
commercial dispersions for the care and maintenance of the skin.
Emollient and moisturizing creams, products against skin spots, anti-wrinkle and anti-dark circles products. Exfoliating, smoothing, fillers. Decorative cosmetics: blush and foundation, opaque and colored creams

Pigmentation, physiology of skin pigmentation, phototypes and sensitivity to sun exposure. Tanning, sunscreens, tanning, depigmenting

Hair products: detergents, conditioners and conditioners. Aesthetic treatment of hair, bleaching, temporary, semi-permanent, permanent dyes, oxidation dyes. Wavy, smooth.

Products for depilation.

Products for deodorizing, antiperspirant, opaque, antimicrobial, adsorbents.

Cosmetics for the oral cavity: physiology of the oral cavity, tooth structure, oral cleansing, toothpaste, fluoridated toothpaste, whitening toothpaste, desensitizing toothpaste. Mouthwashes

Makeup cosmetics: lipsticks, rimmel, pencils, eyeshadow

Adopted texts

Manuale del Cosmetologo, AA.VV. 2° Ed. Tecniche Nuove (2018)

Bettiol e altri, Manuale delle preparazioni cosmetiche e dermatologiche, Tecniche nuove (2018)

M. Giuliani, Manuale di Scienze e Tecnologie Cosmetologiche, Aracne ed. 2005

J. Knowlton e S. Pearce, Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology, Elsevier Adv. Techn., Amsterdam

G. Proserpio, Chimica e Tecnica Cosmetica 2000 Vol I e II, Sinerga ed. Tecnico Scientifiche

Prerequisites

The student must have knowledge of Chemistry, Organic Chemistry, Biochemistry and Physiology. It must be able to expose the concepts with appropriateness of language and use correct terminology.

Exam modes

The oral exam consists in the description and comment of a commercial cosmetic formulation chosen by the student.
The chemical, cosmetological and legislative aspects of the ingredients of the formulation and of the whole formulation must be treated with an outline of the physiology of the area of application. The student, in order to obtain the minimum positive evaluation, must know and describe at least 60% of the ingredients of the formulation and know the cosmetic effects they have; knowledge and basic reasoning skills are required on the various aspects of the course program. To achieve a score of 30/30 cum laude, the student must demonstrate that he has acquired an excellent knowledge of the topics covered, and be able to explain the presentation of the formulation chosen in a logical way and with appropriate scientific language; excellent knowledge and skills are required in exposing and reworking the concepts acquired.