CHEMISTRY OF COSMETIC PRODUCTS

Course objectives

General expected learning outcomes The Chemistry of Cosmetic Products course aims to teach the student the main types of cosmetic products and their use, the function of the different categories of ingredients used in the preparation of cosmetic products, the formulation aspects and the legislative aspects concerning the conception, production and sale of cosmetic products and the social and economic aspects related to their use. Specific expected learning outcomes 1. Knowledge and understanding The student will learn the function of each ingredient of a cosmetic product, the specific functions of the same ingredient in the main classes of cosmetic products, the physiological variation that the ingredients can exert in the area of application. He will learn the origin and composition of the main categories of ingredients and the techniques for their preparation and extraction. In particular, he will know the various types of lipid phases, their origin and their different functions in the various cosmetics, the surfactants and their use as detergents and dispersants, the water used in cosmetic products and the main hydrophilic ingredients, as well as other specific ingredients such as preservatives and antioxidants. He will also know the legislative aspects related to the use of the various ingredients and to the cosmetic product as a whole. 2. Applying knowledge and understanding At the end of the course, the student will be able to recognize, for a cosmetic formulation, the functions of each ingredient and to critically evaluate the possible interactions, incompatibilities, synergies of the various ingredients. He will be able to evaluate the stability of the formulation according to the substances contained. He will be able to propose a choice of ingredients relating to the effect to be obtained, and the conditions of use of the cosmetic product. 3. Making judgements The lessons will involve the direct participation of the students by asking and soliciting questions in order to stimulate their critical sense. Comparison of the ingredients also suitable for nutrition will also be proposed, stimulating the ability to correlate the various functions that an ingredient can have in the various fields of use. Notions already acquired in the chemical field (inorganic, organic and biochemical chemistry) and in the biomedical field (anatomy, physiology, pathology, pharmacology, toxicology) will be recalled. 4. Communication skills The evaluation of the student preparation will be by oral examination, which will focus on all the topics of the program, testing the student's communication skills. 5. Learning skills The student will be encouraged to seek further information on topics of interest both in the recommended texts and in specific scientific publications on the subject. This exercise will be useful also for his future working experience, to build skills in context analysis and problem solving.

Channel 1
GIANLUCA DI MANNO Lecturers' profile

Program - Frequency - Exams

Course program
Definition of cosmetic according to law. Notes on Law 713/86; European Regulation 1223/2009 and subsequent updates; Attachments to the regulation. Product information file. INCI label and nomenclature. Cosmetic formulation. The dispersed system as a means of producing the cosmetic product. Hydrolytes, oleolites, tensiolites, colloids, gels; emulsions, solubilizing systems, anhydrous systems, inclusion complexes, liposomes, cyclodextrins. Raw materials used in the formulation of cosmetics: general considerations on the chemical and chemical-physical characteristics associated with the raw materials in relation to their methods of use. Lipophilic raw materials: paraffins, oils, fats and waxes of mineral, vegetable and animal origin, characteristics, production methods, composition and purity. Synthetic lipophilic substances. Choice of lipophilic substance based on the expected effect. Specific and comparative evaluation of lipophilic raw materials widely used in formulations. Main uses of lipophilic raw materials in the cosmetic field. Hydrophilic raw materials: water for cosmetic use, characteristics, production, required specifications, compatibility with other ingredients; small hydrophilic molecules used as humectants and hydrators; hydrophilic macromolecules in cosmetics, structural characteristics, use in formulations as viscosifiers and gelling agents: synthetic polymers (polyacrylates) and natural polymers (polysaccharides); plant extracts; biofactors. Main uses of hydrophilic raw materials in the cosmetic field. Hydrophilic raw materials: water for cosmetic use, characteristics, production, required specifications, compatibility with other ingredients; small hydrophilic molecules used as humectants and hydrators; hydrophilic macromolecules in cosmetics, structural characteristics, use in formulations as viscosifiers and gelling agents: synthetic polymers (polyacrylates) and natural polymers (polysaccharides); plant extracts; biofactors. Main uses of hydrophilic raw materials in the cosmetic field. Surfactants: classification, characteristics, incompatibility with other ingredients, use. Anionic, cationic, amphiphilic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants. The HLB system and the correct choice of the emulsifying system. Other specific classes of ingredients: rheological modifiers, sequestrants, antioxidants, film formers, preservatives, texturizers, silicones. Skin and skin permeation: notes on the epidermal structure with particular reference to the components intended for maintaining optimal conditions of the epidermis such as the natural humidifying factor (NMF) and epidermal lipids. Skin turgidity and elasticity, response to stress, thickening of melanin production. Meaning of functional cosmetics intended for skin maintenance and care. Notes on percutaneous absorption and the laws that regulate it. Pigmentation, physiology of skin pigmentation, phototypes and sensitivity to sun exposure; UV radiation, effects and tanning. Screens and sun filters. Skin appendages: hair and hair, structure, life cycle, natural coloring. Sebaceous glands, function, secretion, alterations of secretion. Eccrine and apocrine sweat glands, type of secretion. Microbiological aspects, preservation of cosmetic products: the impossibility of making the finished product sterile. Chemical and chemical-physical interactions of the components of the formulation with the preservative. Deactivation of preservatives and definition of effective and real concentration. Microbiological analysis. Cosmetic classes: Detergents: bars of soap and liquid soaps, shower gel, shampoo, intimate detergents; cleansing power, Cleaning Active Substance (SAL). Skin treatment: emollient and moisturizing creams; functional cosmetics: anti-aging products. Exfoliating, smoothing, filling. Discussion of numerous formulations of commercial dispersed systems intended for skin care and maintenance. Sunscreen products and after-sun products. Hair products: shampoo, conditioners and conditioner. Aesthetic hair treatment, gel, oxidation dyes. Deodorization products: antiperspirants, antienzymes, antimicrobials, adsorbents, coverings. Cosmetics for the oral cavity: physiology of the oral cavity, structure of the teeth. Oral cleansing: anti-cavity toothpastes, fluorinated toothpastes, whitening toothpastes, desensitizing toothpastes. Mouthwashes. Decorative cosmetics: dyes and pigments, pearls; blush and foundation, powders, lipsticks, rimmels, pencils, eye shadows.
Prerequisites
The knowledge of Organic Chemistry is important for understanding the lessons of Chemistry of Cosmetic Products. The knowledge of Anatomy and Physiology principles is important. The knowledge of General Chemistry is useful.
Books
Manuale del Cosmetologo, AA.VV. 2° Ed. Tecniche Nuove (2014) Bettiol e altri, Manuale delle preparazioni cosmetiche e dermatologiche, Tecniche nuove (2018) M. Giuliani, Manuale di Scienze e Tecnologie Cosmetologiche, Aracne ed. 2005 G. Proserpio, Chimica e Tecnica Cosmetica 2000 Vol I e II, Sinerga ed. Tecnico Scientifiche
Frequency
Attendance is not mandatory but strongly recommended.
Exam mode
Tests will be carried out during the course and at the end of the course students have to pass an oral final test in order to evaluate their learning. The dates of the final test for the current year will be pubblished on Infostud. Anyone who does not pass the exam successfully will be able to attend the next scheduled date.
Bibliography
The teacher will share the educational material on e-learning portal
Lesson mode
Both face to face and online lessons with students. The lessons are interactive
GIANLUCA DI MANNO Lecturers' profile

Program - Frequency - Exams

Course program
Definition of cosmetic according to law. Notes on Law 713/86; European Regulation 1223/2009 and subsequent updates; Attachments to the regulation. Product information file. INCI label and nomenclature. Cosmetic formulation. The dispersed system as a means of producing the cosmetic product. Hydrolytes, oleolites, tensiolites, colloids, gels; emulsions, solubilizing systems, anhydrous systems, inclusion complexes, liposomes, cyclodextrins. Raw materials used in the formulation of cosmetics: general considerations on the chemical and chemical-physical characteristics associated with the raw materials in relation to their methods of use. Lipophilic raw materials: paraffins, oils, fats and waxes of mineral, vegetable and animal origin, characteristics, production methods, composition and purity. Synthetic lipophilic substances. Choice of lipophilic substance based on the expected effect. Specific and comparative evaluation of lipophilic raw materials widely used in formulations. Main uses of lipophilic raw materials in the cosmetic field. Hydrophilic raw materials: water for cosmetic use, characteristics, production, required specifications, compatibility with other ingredients; small hydrophilic molecules used as humectants and hydrators; hydrophilic macromolecules in cosmetics, structural characteristics, use in formulations as viscosifiers and gelling agents: synthetic polymers (polyacrylates) and natural polymers (polysaccharides); plant extracts; biofactors. Main uses of hydrophilic raw materials in the cosmetic field. Hydrophilic raw materials: water for cosmetic use, characteristics, production, required specifications, compatibility with other ingredients; small hydrophilic molecules used as humectants and hydrators; hydrophilic macromolecules in cosmetics, structural characteristics, use in formulations as viscosifiers and gelling agents: synthetic polymers (polyacrylates) and natural polymers (polysaccharides); plant extracts; biofactors. Main uses of hydrophilic raw materials in the cosmetic field. Surfactants: classification, characteristics, incompatibility with other ingredients, use. Anionic, cationic, amphiphilic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants. The HLB system and the correct choice of the emulsifying system. Other specific classes of ingredients: rheological modifiers, sequestrants, antioxidants, film formers, preservatives, texturizers, silicones. Skin and skin permeation: notes on the epidermal structure with particular reference to the components intended for maintaining optimal conditions of the epidermis such as the natural humidifying factor (NMF) and epidermal lipids. Skin turgidity and elasticity, response to stress, thickening of melanin production. Meaning of functional cosmetics intended for skin maintenance and care. Notes on percutaneous absorption and the laws that regulate it. Pigmentation, physiology of skin pigmentation, phototypes and sensitivity to sun exposure; UV radiation, effects and tanning. Screens and sun filters. Skin appendages: hair and hair, structure, life cycle, natural coloring. Sebaceous glands, function, secretion, alterations of secretion. Eccrine and apocrine sweat glands, type of secretion. Microbiological aspects, preservation of cosmetic products: the impossibility of making the finished product sterile. Chemical and chemical-physical interactions of the components of the formulation with the preservative. Deactivation of preservatives and definition of effective and real concentration. Microbiological analysis. Cosmetic classes: Detergents: bars of soap and liquid soaps, shower gel, shampoo, intimate detergents; cleansing power, Cleaning Active Substance (SAL). Skin treatment: emollient and moisturizing creams; functional cosmetics: anti-aging products. Exfoliating, smoothing, filling. Discussion of numerous formulations of commercial dispersed systems intended for skin care and maintenance. Sunscreen products and after-sun products. Hair products: shampoo, conditioners and conditioner. Aesthetic hair treatment, gel, oxidation dyes. Deodorization products: antiperspirants, antienzymes, antimicrobials, adsorbents, coverings. Cosmetics for the oral cavity: physiology of the oral cavity, structure of the teeth. Oral cleansing: anti-cavity toothpastes, fluorinated toothpastes, whitening toothpastes, desensitizing toothpastes. Mouthwashes. Decorative cosmetics: dyes and pigments, pearls; blush and foundation, powders, lipsticks, rimmels, pencils, eye shadows.
Prerequisites
The knowledge of Organic Chemistry is important for understanding the lessons of Chemistry of Cosmetic Products. The knowledge of Anatomy and Physiology principles is important. The knowledge of General Chemistry is useful.
Books
Manuale del Cosmetologo, AA.VV. 2° Ed. Tecniche Nuove (2014) Bettiol e altri, Manuale delle preparazioni cosmetiche e dermatologiche, Tecniche nuove (2018) M. Giuliani, Manuale di Scienze e Tecnologie Cosmetologiche, Aracne ed. 2005 G. Proserpio, Chimica e Tecnica Cosmetica 2000 Vol I e II, Sinerga ed. Tecnico Scientifiche
Frequency
Attendance is not mandatory but strongly recommended.
Exam mode
Tests will be carried out during the course and at the end of the course students have to pass an oral final test in order to evaluate their learning. The dates of the final test for the current year will be pubblished on Infostud. Anyone who does not pass the exam successfully will be able to attend the next scheduled date.
Bibliography
The teacher will share the educational material on e-learning portal
Lesson mode
Both face to face and online lessons with students. The lessons are interactive
  • Lesson code10612253
  • Academic year2025/2026
  • CourseIndustrial pharmacy REPLICA LATINA
  • CurriculumCurriculum unico
  • Year5th year
  • Semester1st semester
  • SSDCHIM/09
  • CFU6