CHEMISTRY OF COSMETIC PRODUCTS

Course objectives

General expected learning outcomes The Chemistry of Cosmetic Products course aims to teach the student the main types of cosmetic products and their use, the function of the different categories of ingredients used in the preparation of cosmetic products, the formulation aspects and the legislative aspects concerning the conception, production and sale of cosmetic products and the social and economic aspects related to their use. Specific expected learning outcomes 1. Knowledge and understanding The student will learn the function of each ingredient of a cosmetic product, the specific functions of the same ingredient in the main classes of cosmetic products, the physiological variation that the ingredients can exert in the area of application. He will learn the origin and composition of the main categories of ingredients and the techniques for their preparation and extraction. In particular, he will know the various types of lipid phases, their origin and their different functions in the various cosmetics, the surfactants and their use as detergents and dispersants, the water used in cosmetic products and the main hydrophilic ingredients, as well as other specific ingredients such as preservatives and antioxidants. He will also know the legislative aspects related to the use of the various ingredients and to the cosmetic product as a whole. 2. Applying knowledge and understanding At the end of the course, the student will be able to recognize, for a cosmetic formulation, the functions of each ingredient and to critically evaluate the possible interactions, incompatibilities, synergies of the various ingredients. He will be able to evaluate the stability of the formulation according to the substances contained. He will be able to propose a choice of ingredients relating to the effect to be obtained, and the conditions of use of the cosmetic product. 3. Making judgements The lessons will involve the direct participation of the students by asking and soliciting questions in order to stimulate their critical sense. Comparison of the ingredients also suitable for nutrition will also be proposed, stimulating the ability to correlate the various functions that an ingredient can have in the various fields of use. Notions already acquired in the chemical field (inorganic, organic and biochemical chemistry) and in the biomedical field (anatomy, physiology, pathology, pharmacology, toxicology) will be recalled. 4. Communication skills The evaluation of the student preparation will be by oral examination, which will focus on all the topics of the program, testing the student's communication skills. 5. Learning skills The student will be encouraged to seek further information on topics of interest both in the recommended texts and in specific scientific publications on the subject. This exercise will be useful also for his future working experience, to build skills in context analysis and problem solving.

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FELICE CERRETO Lecturers' profile

Program - Frequency - Exams

Course program
Definition of Cosmetic according to European Regulation 1223/2009 and subsequent updates, Annexes to the Regulation. Product Information File. Cosmetic Labelling requirements and INCI Nomenclature. Cosmetic formulation: the dispersed systems, classification and analysis. Water-based systems, oil-based systems, emulsions, hydrogels, anydrous systems, inclusion complexes, liposomes, cyclodextrins. Raw materials used in cosmetic formulation: general considerations concerning stability, formulation flexibility, toxicological aspects, cosmetic aspects, microbiological aspects. Lipophilic raw materials: paraffins, oils, fats and waxes of mineral, vegetable and animal origin; characteristics, production methods, composition and purity. Synthetic lipophilic substances. Correct choice of the lipophilic substance according to the expected effect. Main uses of lipophilic raw materials in the cosmetic field. Hydrophilic raw materials: water for cosmetic use, characteristics, production, required specifications, compatibility with other ingredients; small hydrophilic molecules used as humectants and moisturizers. Risks of microbial pollution. Main uses of hydrophilic raw materials in cosmetics. Surfactants: definition of surfactant, classification, characteristics, incompatibility with other ingredients, use. Anionic, cationic, amphiphilic surfactants; non-ionic surfactants. The HLB system and the influence on the value of HLB of the surfactants by the components of the formulation. Other specific classes of ingredients: sequestrants, antioxidants, preservatives. Skin and skin permeation: notes on the epidermal structure with particular reference to the components intended for the maintenance of optimal conditions of the epidermal hydration such as the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) and epidermal lipids. Skin appendages: hair and hair, structure, life cycle, natural color. Sebaceous glands, function, secretion, changes in secretion. Eccrine and apocrine sweat glands, type of secretion. Microbiological aspects. Preservation of cosmetic products: the impossibility of a complete sterilization of a cosmetic product. Chemical and pshysico-chemical interactions of the components of the formulation with the preservative. Deactivation of preservatives and definition of effective and real concentration. Cosmetics classes: Detergents: soaps and liquid soaps, bubble baths, shampoos, intimate cleansers; Active Activating Substance (SAL). Skin treatment: emollient and moisturizing creams. Hair products: detergents, conditioners. Aesthetic treatment of hair, oxidation dyes. Deodorant products: antiperspirants, antienzymatic and antimicrobial deodorants, adsorbents, covering products. Cosmetics for the oral cavity: physiology of the oral cavity, tooth structure, oral cleansing, toothpaste, fluorinated toothpaste, whitening toothpaste, desensitizing toothpaste. Mouthwashes.
Prerequisites
The student should know notions of General Chemistry, Organic Chemistry, Biochemistry and Physiology. He should be able to expose concepts with proper language and correct terminology.
Books
Manuale del Cosmetologo, AA.VV. 2° Ed. Tecniche Nuove (2014) Bettiol e altri, Manuale delle preparazioni cosmetiche e dermatologiche, Tecniche nuove (2018) M. Giuliani, Manuale di Scienze e Tecnologie Cosmetologiche, Aracne ed. 2005 G. Proserpio, Chimica e Tecnica Cosmetica 2000 Vol I e II, Sinerga ed. Tecnico Scientifiche Didactic material provided by the teacher
Teaching mode
The course is held with classroom lectures, with numerous examples and discussion of commercial cosmetic formulations. The students are involved in the discussion and stimulated to look for details on the individual ingredients. Attendance to the lectures is optional but strongly recommended. In case of limitations due to the pandemic situation, the course will be held remotely or in mixed mode, using Google Meet.
Frequency
Attendance to the lectures is optional but strongly recommended. It is mandatory for Pharmacy students.
Exam mode
The oral examination consists in the description and comment of a commercial cosmetic formulation chosen by the student. The chemical, cosmetological and legislative aspects of the ingredients of the formulation and of the whole formulation must be treated with an outline of the physiology of the area of application. The student, in order to obtain the minimum positive evaluation, must know and describe at least 60% of the ingredients of the formulation and know the cosmetic effects they have; knowledge and basic reasoning skills are required on the various aspects of the course program. To achieve a score of 30/30 cum laude, the student must demonstrate that he has acquired an excellent knowledge of the topics, and be able to explain the presentation of the formulation in a logical way and with appropriate scientific language; excellent knowledge and skills are required in exposing and reworking the concepts acquired.
Lesson mode
The course is held with classroom lectures, with numerous examples and discussion of commercial cosmetic formulations. The students are involved in the discussion and stimulated to look for details on the individual ingredients. Attendance to the lectures is optional but strongly recommended. In case of limitations due to the pandemic situation, the course will be held remotely or in mixed mode, using Google Meet.
FELICE CERRETO Lecturers' profile

Program - Frequency - Exams

Course program
Definition of Cosmetic according to European Regulation 1223/2009 and subsequent updates, Annexes to the Regulation. Product Information File. Cosmetic Labelling requirements and INCI Nomenclature. Cosmetic formulation: the dispersed systems, classification and analysis. Water-based systems, oil-based systems, emulsions, hydrogels, anydrous systems, inclusion complexes, liposomes, cyclodextrins. Raw materials used in cosmetic formulation: general considerations concerning stability, formulation flexibility, toxicological aspects, cosmetic aspects, microbiological aspects. Lipophilic raw materials: paraffins, oils, fats and waxes of mineral, vegetable and animal origin; characteristics, production methods, composition and purity. Synthetic lipophilic substances. Correct choice of the lipophilic substance according to the expected effect. Main uses of lipophilic raw materials in the cosmetic field. Hydrophilic raw materials: water for cosmetic use, characteristics, production, required specifications, compatibility with other ingredients; small hydrophilic molecules used as humectants and moisturizers. Risks of microbial pollution. Main uses of hydrophilic raw materials in cosmetics. Surfactants: definition of surfactant, classification, characteristics, incompatibility with other ingredients, use. Anionic, cationic, amphiphilic surfactants; non-ionic surfactants. The HLB system and the influence on the value of HLB of the surfactants by the components of the formulation. Other specific classes of ingredients: sequestrants, antioxidants, preservatives. Skin and skin permeation: notes on the epidermal structure with particular reference to the components intended for the maintenance of optimal conditions of the epidermal hydration such as the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) and epidermal lipids. Skin appendages: hair and hair, structure, life cycle, natural color. Sebaceous glands, function, secretion, changes in secretion. Eccrine and apocrine sweat glands, type of secretion. Microbiological aspects. Preservation of cosmetic products: the impossibility of a complete sterilization of a cosmetic product. Chemical and pshysico-chemical interactions of the components of the formulation with the preservative. Deactivation of preservatives and definition of effective and real concentration. Cosmetics classes: Detergents: soaps and liquid soaps, bubble baths, shampoos, intimate cleansers; Active Activating Substance (SAL). Skin treatment: emollient and moisturizing creams. Hair products: detergents, conditioners. Aesthetic treatment of hair, oxidation dyes. Deodorant products: antiperspirants, antienzymatic and antimicrobial deodorants, adsorbents, covering products. Cosmetics for the oral cavity: physiology of the oral cavity, tooth structure, oral cleansing, toothpaste, fluorinated toothpaste, whitening toothpaste, desensitizing toothpaste. Mouthwashes.
Prerequisites
The student should know notions of General Chemistry, Organic Chemistry, Biochemistry and Physiology. He should be able to expose concepts with proper language and correct terminology.
Books
Manuale del Cosmetologo, AA.VV. 2° Ed. Tecniche Nuove (2014) Bettiol e altri, Manuale delle preparazioni cosmetiche e dermatologiche, Tecniche nuove (2018) M. Giuliani, Manuale di Scienze e Tecnologie Cosmetologiche, Aracne ed. 2005 G. Proserpio, Chimica e Tecnica Cosmetica 2000 Vol I e II, Sinerga ed. Tecnico Scientifiche Didactic material provided by the teacher
Teaching mode
The course is held with classroom lectures, with numerous examples and discussion of commercial cosmetic formulations. The students are involved in the discussion and stimulated to look for details on the individual ingredients. Attendance to the lectures is optional but strongly recommended. In case of limitations due to the pandemic situation, the course will be held remotely or in mixed mode, using Google Meet.
Frequency
Attendance to the lectures is optional but strongly recommended. It is mandatory for Pharmacy students.
Exam mode
The oral examination consists in the description and comment of a commercial cosmetic formulation chosen by the student. The chemical, cosmetological and legislative aspects of the ingredients of the formulation and of the whole formulation must be treated with an outline of the physiology of the area of application. The student, in order to obtain the minimum positive evaluation, must know and describe at least 60% of the ingredients of the formulation and know the cosmetic effects they have; knowledge and basic reasoning skills are required on the various aspects of the course program. To achieve a score of 30/30 cum laude, the student must demonstrate that he has acquired an excellent knowledge of the topics, and be able to explain the presentation of the formulation in a logical way and with appropriate scientific language; excellent knowledge and skills are required in exposing and reworking the concepts acquired.
Lesson mode
The course is held with classroom lectures, with numerous examples and discussion of commercial cosmetic formulations. The students are involved in the discussion and stimulated to look for details on the individual ingredients. Attendance to the lectures is optional but strongly recommended. In case of limitations due to the pandemic situation, the course will be held remotely or in mixed mode, using Google Meet.
  • Lesson code10612253
  • Academic year2025/2026
  • CourseIndustrial pharmacy
  • CurriculumSingle curriculum
  • Year5th year
  • Semester1st semester
  • SSDCHIM/09
  • CFU6