INSIGHT INTO COSMETIC CHEMISTRY

Course objectives

General expected learning outcomes The course aims to extend the basic knowledge of cosmetic products acquired with the Chemistry of Cosmetic Products course, addressing more particular and complex categories of cosmetic products and studying more specific categories of ingredients used in their formulation. Specific expected learning outcomes 1. Knowledge and understanding The student will learn the chemistry and the function of specific ingredients used in particular cosmetics with more complex formulations. In particular, he will know the substances used in sun protection, together with the physiological aspects associated with it, the anti-aging cosmetics, and the products for the make-up; an insight into polymeric ingredients will also be provided. He will also know the legislative aspects related to the use of these ingredients and to the cosmetic product as a whole. 2. Applying knowledge and understanding At the end of the course, the student will be able to recognize the functions of the ingredients also for a complex cosmetic formulation and to critically evaluate the possible interactions, incompatibilities, synergies of the various ingredients. He will be able to evaluate the stability of the formulation according to the substances contained. He will be able to propose a choice of ingredients relating to the effect to be obtained, and the conditions of use of the cosmetic product. 3. Making judgements The lessons will involve the direct participation of the students by asking and soliciting questions in order to stimulate their critical sense. Notions already acquired in the chemical (inorganic, organic and biochemical chemistry), biomedical (anatomy, physiology, pathology, pharmacology, toxicology) and cosmetic fields will be recalled. 4. Communication skills The evaluation of the student preparation will be carried out by oral examination, which will focus on all the topics of the program, testing the student's communication skills. 5. Learning skills The student will be encouraged to seek further information on topics of interest both in the recommended texts and in specific scientific publications on the subject. This exercise will be useful also for his future working experience, to build skills in context analysis and problem solving.

Channel 1
FELICE CERRETO Lecturers' profile

Program - Frequency - Exams

Course program
Hydrophilic macromolecules in cosmetics, structural characteristics, use and application as thickeners and gellifying agents: synthetic polymers (polyacrylates) and natural polymers (polysaccharides). Main uses of hydrophilic raw materials in cosmetics. Other specific classes of polymer ingredients: rheological modifiers, film-forming agents, texturizers, silicones. Pigmentation: physiology of skin pigmentation, phototypes and sensitivity to sun exposure. UV rays and their effects. Sunscreens. Sun products: sun protection and after-sun products. Skin and skin permeation: notes on the epidermal structure with particular reference to the components intended for the maintenance of optimal conditions of the epidermal hydration such as the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) and epidermal lipids. Chrono- and photo-aging. Features of functional cosmetics for skincare: anti-age products. Exfoliating and smoothing products, fillers. Discussion on numerous formulations for skincare. Decorative cosmetics: colorants and pigments, pearls; blusher and foundation, cosmetic powders, creams, lipsticks, rimmel, eye pencils, eyeshadow.
Prerequisites
The student must have knowledge of General Chemistry, Organic Chemistry, Biochemistry and Physiology. The Course in Chemistry of Cosmetic Products is mandatory.
Books
Manuale del Cosmetologo, AA.VV. 2° Ed. Tecniche Nuove (2014) Bettiol e altri, Manuale delle preparazioni cosmetiche e dermatologiche, Tecniche nuove (2018) M. Giuliani, Manuale di Scienze e Tecnologie Cosmetologiche, Aracne ed. 2005 G. Proserpio, Chimica e Tecnica Cosmetica 2000 Vol I e II, Sinerga ed. Tecnico Scientifiche Materiale didattico fornito dal docente Didactic material provided by the teacher
Frequency
Attendance to the lectures is optional but strongly recommended.
Exam mode
The oral examination consists in the description and comment of a commercial cosmetic formulation chosen by the student. The chemical, cosmetological and legislative aspects of the ingredients of the formulation and of the whole formulation must be treated with an outline of the physiology of the area of application. The student, in order to obtain the minimum positive evaluation, must know and describe at least 60% of the ingredients of the formulation and know the cosmetic effects they have; knowledge and basic reasoning skills are required on the various aspects of the course program. To achieve a score of 30/30 cum laude, the student must demonstrate that he has acquired an excellent knowledge of the topics, and be able to explain the presentation of the formulation in a logical way and with appropriate scientific language; excellent knowledge and skills are required in exposing and reworking the concepts acquired.
Lesson mode
The course is held with classroom lectures, with numerous examples and discussion of commercial cosmetic formulations. The students are involved in the discussion and stimulated to look for details on the individual ingredients. Attendance to the lectures is optional but strongly recommended.
FELICE CERRETO Lecturers' profile

Program - Frequency - Exams

Course program
Hydrophilic macromolecules in cosmetics, structural characteristics, use and application as thickeners and gellifying agents: synthetic polymers (polyacrylates) and natural polymers (polysaccharides). Main uses of hydrophilic raw materials in cosmetics. Other specific classes of polymer ingredients: rheological modifiers, film-forming agents, texturizers, silicones. Pigmentation: physiology of skin pigmentation, phototypes and sensitivity to sun exposure. UV rays and their effects. Sunscreens. Sun products: sun protection and after-sun products. Skin and skin permeation: notes on the epidermal structure with particular reference to the components intended for the maintenance of optimal conditions of the epidermal hydration such as the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) and epidermal lipids. Chrono- and photo-aging. Features of functional cosmetics for skincare: anti-age products. Exfoliating and smoothing products, fillers. Discussion on numerous formulations for skincare. Decorative cosmetics: colorants and pigments, pearls; blusher and foundation, cosmetic powders, creams, lipsticks, rimmel, eye pencils, eyeshadow.
Prerequisites
The student must have knowledge of General Chemistry, Organic Chemistry, Biochemistry and Physiology. The Course in Chemistry of Cosmetic Products is mandatory.
Books
Manuale del Cosmetologo, AA.VV. 2° Ed. Tecniche Nuove (2014) Bettiol e altri, Manuale delle preparazioni cosmetiche e dermatologiche, Tecniche nuove (2018) M. Giuliani, Manuale di Scienze e Tecnologie Cosmetologiche, Aracne ed. 2005 G. Proserpio, Chimica e Tecnica Cosmetica 2000 Vol I e II, Sinerga ed. Tecnico Scientifiche Materiale didattico fornito dal docente Didactic material provided by the teacher
Frequency
Attendance to the lectures is optional but strongly recommended.
Exam mode
The oral examination consists in the description and comment of a commercial cosmetic formulation chosen by the student. The chemical, cosmetological and legislative aspects of the ingredients of the formulation and of the whole formulation must be treated with an outline of the physiology of the area of application. The student, in order to obtain the minimum positive evaluation, must know and describe at least 60% of the ingredients of the formulation and know the cosmetic effects they have; knowledge and basic reasoning skills are required on the various aspects of the course program. To achieve a score of 30/30 cum laude, the student must demonstrate that he has acquired an excellent knowledge of the topics, and be able to explain the presentation of the formulation in a logical way and with appropriate scientific language; excellent knowledge and skills are required in exposing and reworking the concepts acquired.
Lesson mode
The course is held with classroom lectures, with numerous examples and discussion of commercial cosmetic formulations. The students are involved in the discussion and stimulated to look for details on the individual ingredients. Attendance to the lectures is optional but strongly recommended.
  • Lesson codeAAF2372
  • Academic year2025/2026
  • CourseIndustrial pharmacy
  • CurriculumSingle curriculum
  • Year5th year
  • Semester1st semester
  • CFU2